State Bank of Vietnam

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

by Bui Hoang Long

The historian as detective 

I want to approach history as an investigation. When a detective arrives at the scene, he will try to find clues to identify the criminal. The detective won't be able to go back in time to know exactly how things unfolded. However, he/she can construct a logical story through the close analysis of evidence and information. Likewise, any historical investigation is a journey of discovery to find missing pieces of puzzles and connect them to a coherent story.

To learn about the history of the Vietnam State Bank, Ho Chi Minh branch, I would like to invite you to join this journey that travels across space and time. We will go back to the French colonial period when the bank had the name “Banque de I'Indochine Saigon“. This investigative journey consists of three puzzles. The first puzzle is the analysis of the building's architecture (interior and exterior). The second is the analysis of the significance of the building's location as a center of commerce, trading, and finance. The third is the analysis of the coin and banknote designs. With each puzzle, I'll give you a lot of clues, such as pictures and information, along with a list of questions as the compass to help you navigate this journey. In conclusion, I try to put these three puzzle pieces together to make sense of the building. However, since this is only my subjective tale, I always welcome criticism. You can contact me for feedback or provide any new clues via this form

This is your starting point of the exciting journey to understand the building history and the life in Saigon during the French colonial period. 

Let us begin! Fangen wir an! Incipiamus! Cùng bắt đầu nhé!

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Overall design of HCMC State Bank

When visitors walk along the bustling streets of District 1 in Saigon, the Banque de l'Indochine Saigon appears with a unique appearance compared to other buildings in the area. The building uses mainly stone materials, has an impressive height, and occupies an entire city block. These give it a very different appearance from the contemporary cement buildings with modern and simple designs. The building is a place to store and transfer money, so there are always police standing around to protect the building and remind people passing by not to walk too close to the building or take detailed pictures. All of this adds to the majestic and mysterious character of the building.

1.1. Clues 

1.2. Guiding question

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Photo by starglobal3d, illustration by Hoang Long 03/2022

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Photo and illustration by Hoang Long 03/2022

1.3. Interpretation of the architectural design

1.3.1. Exterior design

The building locates at number 8, Võ Văn Kiệt Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Three sides of the building face the city streets, one the riverfront (Fig. 1). The French architect Félix Dumaill used granite as the primary material for the construction to add the value of timelessness and beauty to the building [1]. This building occupies an entire city block and has a height equivalent to a 5-story building. People walking around the building will find themselves small when walking next to a structure of such height and enormous size (Fig. 2).

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 1: The Views of Banque de l'Indochine Saigon from above, photos taken from Virtual Saigon

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 2: The enormous size of building, photo by starglobal3d, illustration by Hoang Long 03/2022

From the horizontal view, the facade of the building has four layers. The base of the building is designed much higher than many other buildings giving the building a formal look. Passengers who want to enter the building will have to enter the main gate from two adjacent gates or up the stairs. The second layer is the highest part, including ten pilasters, and it creates the classicizing look of the building. The pilasters have classic architectural details such as base, shaft, capital, frieze, and cornice (Fig. 2). The third layer includes ten short pilasters, and the fourth layer is the roof with decorative details. The prominent height of the second layer compared to the third and the fourth creates a sense of heaviness in the building.

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 3: The pilasters with classicizing details, photo and illustration by Hoang Long 03/2022

Vertically, the building has a symmetrical design. The facade of the building has three main blocks. The middle block has eight pilasters, giving the building an antique look similar to Greek temples. The second block consists of two large gates on either side where cars can enter. This section protrudes more than the middle, giving depth to the building's facade. The third block is the main functional block of the building, designed to be entirely rearward to help make the two main parts of the facade stand out even more (Fig. 4). All architectural details combined give the building a feeling of magnificence and timelessness. In addition to that beauty, the decorative elements on the roof give the building an even more unique and exotic look.

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 4: Vertical design of the building, photo by starglobal3d, illustration by Hoang Long 03/2022

1.3.2. The roof decorative details

The top floor of the building has unique decorative motifs on the railing and the roof (Fig. 5). Some sources say that these details were influenced by Cham and Khmer architecture  [2]. But I also could not find concrete evidence to prove this, although there are some similarities in the curving shape between this decoration and the Naga snake symbol of Cambodia (Fig. 6). Another hypothesis is that these curving shapes were inspired by the flame palmette antefixes originated in Egypt and were reused in Greek decorative arts (Fig. 7) [3].  The combination of various details of the building is called eclecticism. Eclecticism originated from the Greek word "eklektikos" as “selective”. A famous school of architectural design in the 19th and 20th centuries incorporates elements of classical architecture with ornaments from other cultures or architectural periods.

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 6: The decorative details of the roof. Photos by Hoang Long, 03/2022

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 7: Some similarities in shape between the bank and Saigon Post Office decoration and the Naga snake symbol of Cambodia

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 6: Some similarities in shape between flame palmette antefixes, the bank, and Saigon Post Office decoration [3].

1.3.3. Interior design

Guests who come to transact at, or visit, the building can enter from the enormous main gate, constructed of iron with decorative art motifs. The bank's logo is on the main entrance with the letters I and B interlocked, representing “Indochina Bank“. Inside, the building is designed with a large space in the middle as the employees' workplace (Fig. 9). This area is illuminated with a large skylight with a dome made of modern steel and glass system. These glass windows are white and yellow, and the glass panels are also beautifully decorated. The building has ceramic floor tiles and glass in the windows with curved balustrades with steel motifs on the second floor. Those combinations of modern materials and stylish design of the interior and facade influenced by the Art Deco design movement, another example of eclecticism is used in the design of the building. All the exterior design details with a majestic appearance and luxurious interior space help this building symbolize French power and economy in Saigon. And to better understand the unique position of this bank, we shall look at the construction location of the building.

The internal design of HCM State Bank

Fig 9: Inside Banque de l'Indochine Saigon, 1940, Manh Hai flickr

1.4. References

[1] Corfield, J. (2013b). Historical Dictionary of Ho Chi Minh City (Anthem Historical Dictionaries of Cities). Anthem Press. 

[2] Corfield, J. (2013b). Historical Dictionary of Ho Chi Minh City (Anthem Historical Dictionaries of Cities). Anthem Press. 

[3] Hiếu Y. (2019, July 18). A common mistake in explaining the palmette ornaments. Architecture Excursions. Retrieved May 28, 2022, from Tan man kien truc Facebook

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

French people built the bank strategically favorable for economic and commercial development. It locates right next to the Chinese Arroyo; Ben Nghe canal nowadays và Saigon harbor; Bach Dang Wharf nowadays. The following clues shall show the importance of those places in Saigon:

2.1. Clues

2.2. Guiding questions

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Map of Sai Gon in 1923, Manh Hai Flickr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Aerial view of the start of the Chinese Arroyo from belleindochine.free.fr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Chinese Arroyo 1920-1929 from Manh Hai Flickr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Banknote of Banque de l'Indochine - Second type - 20 piastres from Art-hanoi

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Shot from a plane by French photographer Raymond Cauchetier in 1955 from Manh Hai Flickr

2.3. My interpretation

2.3.1. The Chinese Arroyo and rice production

The bank is located strategically on the riverbank of the Chinese Arroyo and 400 meters from Saigon port. The Chinese Arroyo is the waterway that connects Cholon to Saigon (Fig. 10). The Hoa People (Chinese-Vietnamese people) came to this area in 1779 when they had to refuge from Biên Hòa (located in the north of Saigon city) after the attacks of Tây Sơn rebels on Nguyễn Lords. They took refuge on the edge of the watercourse (the Chinese Arroyo) and built the village that became Chợ Lớn (the "big market" in Vietnamese) [4]. Later, they extended to become the center of the economic power in Cochinchina (the region south of the Gianh River). They controlled the entire rice production line (except for the crop production, which the Vietnamese farmers produce). The Hoa people purchased the rice in Cholon, then processed and stored it before being shipped via the Arroyo to Saigon harbor, and eventually exported overseas. We can see this intense activity by the company of many boats and warehouses, rice mills, and various industrial buildings on both sides of the Arroyo in figure 11. A note from the internal documents of the Banque de l'Indochine (1875–1945) shows the importance of trading with rice for the Saigon economy [5].

Saigon is the most important commercial center of an essentially agricultural country with its main product rice. The export of this cereal has risen on average, during the last ten years, to about 800,000 tons per year, sent for the most part to France, China, Java, the Philippines, and Japan [5].

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 10: Map of Saigon in 1923 from Manh Hai Flickr; the Chinese Arroyo is the waterway that connects Cholon to Saigon

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 11: Intense activity by the presence of many boats and warehouses, rice mills, and various industrial buildings on both sides of the Arroyo from belleindochine.free.fr

2.3.2. Saigon Harbor and international trade

The Saigon Banque de l'Indochine is located near the Saigon Harbor, the place for international trade with a custom-house, wharf, and hotels (Fig. 12).  Figure 13 shows the dense presence of small boats to carry goods from the river system and loaded onto large ships for commercial traffic. From the historical photo, we can imagine this is an economic model for the trade and export of rice in the region. The Chinese managed the economy in Saigon, and the French managed the rice exports. Figure 13 shows the strategic location of the Banque de l'Indochine Saigon near Chines Arroyo – the waterway to trade rice, and Saigon harbor – the place to export rice. Figure 14 shows one of the cargo ships that export rice from Saigon. 

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Figure 12: Banque de l'Indochine Saigon is located near the custom-house, wharf, and hotels, map from Manh Hai Flickr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 13: The strategic location of the Banque de l'Indochine Saigon, photo by French Raymond Cauchetier in 1955 from Manh Hai Flickr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 14. Cargo Ship in Saigon, 1925. 44,426 bags of rice were shipped by Maison Denis Frères, which makes a total of some 8,500 tons of rice, photo from Manh Hai Flickr

2.3.3. The financial district

When the French government colonized South Vietnam, they built and managed Saigon as a colonial city for economic exploitation. With the fertile rice fields of the Mekong Delta, Saigon became the central place to trade and export rice. Figure 15 shows the bustling everyday scene at the trade center. Many financial institutions moved to Saigon to participate in the local economy via investment, trade, and export. Many banks came to Vietnam and located their headquarters in the Saigon port area to create the financial district. The Hongkong and Shanghai Bank (HSBC) established a branch in Saigon and build even a headquater in 1870, followed by other banks: The Société financière française et coloniale (1926) which later became Banque Franco-Chinoise in 1930 and the Banque Extérieure d'Algérie (The Overseas Bank of Algeria). The Banque de l'Indochine was founded in 1875. In Saigon, the bank's headquarters building was built and inaugurated in 1930. The headquarters of the Banque de l'Indochine Sai Gon was the largest bank in the financial district of Saigon at that time (Fig. 16). The bank's activities may be directly related to business lending and economic control in the region.

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Figure 15: Saigon, 1925, the bustling everyday scene at the trade center, photo from Manh Hai Flickr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 16: The area of the Banque de l'Indochine Saigon building compared to the other banks in that area during the French colonial period, photo from Google Map

2.4. References

[4] Gédéon, L. (2022, April). Cholon: a “little China” in the heart of Saigon. Gis Reseau Asie. Retrieved May 28, 2022, from http://www.gis-reseau-asie.org/en/cholon-little-china-heart-saigon

[5]  Banque De L’indochine, succursale de saïgon. (2017, October 19). Entreprises-Coloniales.Fr. Retrieved May 28, 2022, from https://www.entreprises-coloniales.fr/inde-indochine/Bq_Indoch.-Saigon.pdf

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

During the French colonial period, the monetary system was established to stabilize the economy and expand trade across Indochina. The Banque de l'Indochine Saigon was a private bank, and it had a special status for issuing currencies, including coins and banknotes.

3.1. Clue and guiding questions

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Photo of French Indo-China Piastre from ngccoin.com

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Photo of Banknote of Banque de l'Indochine - Second type - 100 piastres from art-hanoi.com

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Saigon Banque de l'Indochine branches in Indochina, photo from saigon-vietnam.fr

3.2. My interpretation

3.2.1.  The French Indo-China piastre of 1887

Looking closely at the French Indo-China piastre of 1887 (Fig. 17), we can identify the following details: (1) Overall, this is a silver coin used for commercial purposes, with the design resembling the Great Seal of France (2) the words “Republique Francaise“ (English translation: French Republic) form the circular legend (2) the word “Barre“ and the number “1887“ are in the bottom corner, (3) the rice plant on the left side of the female figure, (4) the female figure holds fasces in her right hand and a ship's rudder in her left hand, (5) the anchor at the right side of the female figure. The female figure, to be identified with Marianne Liberty, has a confident seating posture, and her eyes look frontal to the viewer. At the same time, she holds the fasces as a symbol of justice and power in her right hand. She shows herself as the one in charge of direction and rule with her left-hand holding the ship's rudder. The rice as a symbol suggests focusing on local goods for colonial exploitation since rice has always been a major export product of the Mekong Delta. Along with that, the symbol of the anchor indicates maritime and international trade (Fig. 17). These symbols are directly connected to the trading and exporting of rice.

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 17: My interpretation of the meaning of French Indo-China piastre design, Photo of French Indo-China Piastre from ngccoin.com

3.2.2. The 100 piastres banknote (1911–1920)

When looking at the 100 Piastres banknote, we can see the details of Naga, a snake god, and Lion guards from Cambodian culture (Fig. 18). This is an indication of the association policy of the French colonialists in the Indochina region. They brought details of other cultures into their design products, similar to how the French designed the Vietnam History Museum by including the elements of the Chinese style into the French building, as is shown in Fig. 19. On the right of the banknote is another image of Marianne, the icon of the French Republic, standing upright, with her arms resting comfortably on the capital of the column, her hand grasping the shoulder of an Asian-looking man. This Asian man wears traditional Vietnamese clothes. The posture of Marianne and this man shows the power relation and hierarchy between the French and the Vietnamese, and the hand on the shoulder represents the position of an older person teaching an inexperienced one, a paternal gesture. This expansion and demonstration of power are also reflected in the fact that the bank itself issued these coins and banknotes to govern the colonial economy. And this is obvious through the opening of branches throughout Indochina, especially in Vietnam (Saigon, Hai Phong, Hanoi, Tourane - Da Nang nowadays) and Cambodia (Pnompeng & Battambang).

Overall design of HCMC State Bank Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 19: Vietnam History Museum in Saigon, You can see more detailed photos of this building here

4. Connecting the dots

4.1. What does the visual evidence tell us about the history of Banque de l'Indochine Saigon?

Regarding the first clue, the exterior and interior design of the building shows us a design intending and emphasizing the expression of power. The building exudes solidity and longevity because it has an extensive design and solid stone material. Along with the Art Deco and eclecticism interior design, it offers the feeling of distant luxury and high class. All these design impressions are related to the second clue, emphasizing the importance of this building in French colonial economic management and administration in Indochina, such as issuing currency, ensuring regional financial stability, and fostering the economy. The building is located at the very heart of the economic and commercial development area, near the Chinese Arroyo and Saigon Harbor. The canal plays a vital role in commodity trading, especially rice, and is not far from the Saigon harbor, where transactions are carried out and international export occurs. The design of the building itself also conveys the impression of French power over the colonists. Similar to the third clue, the design of coins and banknotes show the classical French symbols of power which root in ancient Roman iconography, as Marianne Liberty holds fasces and rudder on the French Indo-China piastre coin of 1887 (Fig. 17) or with Marianne's hand on the Vietnamese man’s shoulder on 100 piastres banknote from 1911 to 1920 (Fig. 19).

4.2. Banque de l'Indochine Saigon nowadays

However, any object of history changes meaning with the historical context in which it exists. The architecture of the Banque de l'Indochine Saigon building is still intact, but the name of the building has been changed to "State Bank of Vietnam". The Chinese Arroyo Canal has turned into Ben Nghe Canal and mainly serves as drainage. Saigon Harbor has become the Bach Dang Wharf primarily for touristic purposes. In front of the building, the ventilation building for the Thu Thiem tunnel was erected to cover the loss of the landscape beauty of the building (Fig. 20), now hiding large parts of the riverside facade of the bank. A similar fate befell the French Indo-China piastre coin when it was reused for a new purpose: curing colds in a Vietnamese folk remedy. They will place it in egg white and use it to rub the back of the patient (Fig. 21). The coin is made of silver, so the Vietnamese believe it can extract colds out of sick people. These examples show us an interesting perspective of how historical objects interact with contemporary life in Vietnam.

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 22: The ventilation building for the Thu Thiem tunnel was built in front of the bank, photo from Nguyentich Nghia Flickr

Overall design of HCMC State Bank

Fig 23: The French Indo-China Piastre being used as an ingredient in cold remedies, screenshot from Youtube video by Hoa Xòe Tv

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